If I had to choose one bread to eat everything in, it would probably be a bagel; soft, chewy, but substantial enough to meet almost any textural challenge, and this twist on a traditional smoked salmon and cream cheese combo could be a contender for my default bagel filling. The jalapeño relish, mellowed by the creamy cheese, provides a comfy bed for the crunchy yet giving layer of cheesy grilled corn chips, with a layer of fresh tomato salsa and succulent smoked salmon sealing the deal. But feel free to use tuna mayo, or go vegan or veggie with avocado, shredded slaw or baby spinach.

Method:

• To make the jalapeño relish: put all the relish ingredients in the large bowl of a food processor and pulse until you have a fine texture – you might need to do this in batches, depending on the size of your machine.

• Empty the relish into a large mixing bowl, add all the ingredients for the brine and seasoning and mix well to combine. Taste for salt, adding more if needed.

• Transfer the relish to a lidded food storage container. You can use straight away and store the remainder in the fridge, where it will keep for a month.

• Then make the simple salsa: cut the tomatoes into wafer-thin slices and put in a bowl. Season with the salt and pepper and drizzle with the olive oil. Set aside until needed.
• Whip the cream cheese with the heaped tablespoon of the jalapeño relish in a mixing bowl and set aside until needed.
• Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan over a low to medium heat and add the vegetable oil, rotating and tilting the pan to cover the base. Sprinkle with the cheese, and as it begins to melt, scatter the corn chips over the top. Then, using a wide metal spatula, gently crush the chips down so that they flatten and merge with the melting cheese.
• Leave the cheese to continue melting and cooking while you slice the bagels in half and toast lightly. Once the cheese has melted fully and is browning and crisping around the edge, take the pan off the heat.
• Spread both halves of the bagels with the cream cheese mixture, then add a spoonful of the tomato salsa to the top halves and fold the smoked salmon on to the bottom halves.
• Using the spatula, cut the cheesy corn chips into thirds and shovel each third on the smoked salmon halves – a nachos ‘overhang’ is a worthy goal here! Top with extra jalapeño relish.
• Flip the salsa-covered top halves over on to the nacho-covered bottom halves.
• Slide each filled bagel on to a piece of greaseproof paper or foil big enough to accommodate your creation. Wrap tightly and slice in half to expose the beautiful layers inside or just keep them whole. To my mind they always eat better from the paper or foil – less messy too!

Recipes adapted from The Pickle Jar: Recipes for making and using pickles and ferments (Hamlyn)